I had never been to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve before, and so I really was not sure what to expect. The truth is that you cannot really explain fairly how the “fairy Bushman grass” dances and glows in the light and to the tune of the desert winds, or the vastness, or the magic of what was once a massive inland sea. Although, one thing I can explain fully is the fact that the desert wind was unbelievably cold for our visit. We had the misfortune of arriving at Kalahari Plains Camp at the same time as a cold front, which had just swept through South Africa heralding the end of the World Cup. Although it was cold enough for me to get dressed in bed, we made our way to the early morning fire set in front of the main area of camp where we thawed out with a cup of coffee. Whilst we were remarking on how quiet the night had been for animal sounds, the roar of a lion interrupted us. Another lion accompanied him and both were clearly visible on the plain. We headed out and Mike was just in time to get a pre-dawn shot of the two magnificent beasts walking in front of camp.

That then was the start of one of the coldest, but most rewarding, game viewing days of my life. With the icy cold came clarity of colour in the pale blue sky of the Kalahari that is a delight to any photographer. Aside from massive herds of springbok and oryx, honey badgers, giraffe, red hartebeest, kudu, steenbok and warthog, we managed to get the closest I have ever been to a juvenile Martial Eagle.

But that was not the end of it. We took a drive down to Letiahau Pan where we came across a brown hyaena feeding off the remains of a dead lion. Two days earlier, a territorial battle had ensued and two lions had succumbed. That was the second kill we witnessed that day; the first was a lanner falcon on a Hornbill and the final one was a pale chanting goshawk on a black korhaan kill.

Of course the birds were spectacular too and our special sightings included an ant-eating chat and swallow-tailed bee-eaters. Lots and lots of pale chanting goshawks (affectionately known as PCGs) are a feature of the area.

During our three-day stay, we found what we believe was the black-maned lion responsible for the territorial fight. He was strolling along with a lioness and two sub-adults. It was a fabulous sighting of what we considered THE perfect black-maned lion of the Central Kalahari. We also saw bat-eared foxes and an aardwolf up towards Deception Valley.

The weather finally warmed up so we could do the cultural walk with two Bushmen or San people, which is an activity I can recommend to anyone. We were fascinated when they demonstrated how to catch a spring hare using their elongated reed sticks that had a hook on the end made from the horn of a steenbok. They also demonstrated how they read the signs of the wilderness as well as their tracking and fire-making skills.

After a fantastic three days, we agreed that it would be our wish to make a pilgrimage to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve at least once a year – it is that special. We also agreed that our future visits will not be less than three nights at a time as that way we will be able to cover a larger territory and to get a better feel for the Reserve.

Our thanks to Basha, Russel and the team at Kalahari Plains who made our stay so memorable.

Date: 4th August 2010

Guides: Johnny Mowanji and Kambango Sinimbo

Management: Justin Stevens and Jacky Collett-Stevens

Photographs: Dr. David and Lisa Agard

One species’ loss is sometimes another family’s gain; this was the story that unfolded at Tubu Tree Camp on August 4th.

Just off the road, an elephant cow waited with two sub-adults. They stood very quietly. The cow did not move and eventually, the observers spotted a tiny baby elephant lying in the grass nearby. We initially thought it must be asleep but eventually realised the new-born was dead. The cow looked a little uneasy and we decided to leave her to mourn. As we moved off, however, she lost her temper and charged – perhaps distraught at her loss.

The following morning, after a night filled with lion roars, we tracked a male lion to the elephant carcass. He feasted on his own all day. In the evening, he was joined by his three cubs, very unusually without the two adult females of the pride. The following morning, the whole pride was together, their bellies distended. The fat stomachs did not stop the cubs playing with the elephant trunk and their father.

As an elephant herd lost a baby, a lion pride was able to feed for four days – indeed, they left nothing for the hyaenas, jackals or vultures.

Wild dogs have a distinct social hierarchy, relying on group cooperation to survive. They are also highly social animals used to operating in packs consisting of several individuals. This is what is so unusual about the lone wild dog at Mombo. She has been surviving on her own for over one year now in an area of very high lion density – not normally good odds for a wild dog to survive. But despite this she has been thriving, spending a lot of time close to Mombo Camp on Chief’s Island. In her search for company she has made friends with a family of five jackals and has one or two hyaenas which tolerate her as much as she them, with all three species often feeding on the same kill, normally made by the wild dog. The wild dog even took food back and regurgitated it for jackal pups when they were younger, and is even seen regurgitating for the adults as well.

On the morning of the 26th of June, we were following the lone wild dog down a game viewing track with three jackal in tow, when they suddenly broke off into the adjoining bush. Coming around the corner we saw a giraffe kill with about 16 hyaena and eight jackal feeding on it and the wild dog milling about in the background. The giraffe looked quite old, and the one back leg seemed broken and there were hoof scuff marks on the trees next to it – all indicating a titanic struggle with some sort of predator. We deduced the giraffe was killed by these hyaena. The jackals were feeding in a tight group near the head and growling ferociously at the large group of hyaenas feeding on the stomach area. Now and then a hyaena would chase the group of jackals off the carcass but they would soon return with just as much attitude.

At one point a very young hyaena was resting with his head on the neck of the giraffe and four jackals feeding within centimetres of him. Amazingly, later on in the morning, when most of the hyaenas had their fill, the wild dog snuck in and also started feeding on the giraffe carcass with two hyaenas and her jackal associates as well!

Eventually however the youngsters managed to flank around the stallion and chase him directly at their mother. She exploded from the grass and leapt onto his back. The weight and strength of the big cat knocked him over. The young males quickly joined the fray but the zebra wasn’t quite done. He fought on, kicking and biting at his captors. His strength began to ebb away though and after about an hour he succumbed.

This year the Medscheme Tour de Tuli 2010 – Mapungubwe Route attracted  420 cyclists, 54 cyclist leaders, 150 staff and volunteers to do all possible to create an adventure of a lifetime. The event was represented by many different nationalities including Australia, Botswana, Namibia, Seychelles, Slovakia, South Africa, USA, and the UK – and not forgetting Zimbabwe!

The increasing popularity of the tour in 2010 saw, for the first time, two consecutive starts and an increase by 54% of the number of cyclists that had participated in 2009.  Over four days, the cyclists covered over 300km of predominantly single track, travelled through four different National Parks and crossed through three ‘informal’ country border posts. Clearly not a ride that you could normally undertake….

The cyclists were exposed to some of the finest places that the Greater Mapungubwe Transfrontier Conservation Areas (TFCA) has to offer, namely the Northern Tuli Game Reserve, the Tuli Safari area, Shashe and Maramani villages and the Sentinel paleontological sites. The tour ended at the Mapungubwe National Park, a World Heritage site.

The highlights of the tour included some excellent elephant sightings (including some close encounters that definitely got the cyclists’ attention!), hyaena sightings and even a lion kill. The warm welcome of the communities along the way will long live in the memories of many cyclists. At Fort Tuli, the cyclists enjoyed camping in the Shashe riverbed, a gorgeous setting after a difficult day of cycling. Many cyclists enjoyed wallowing in the Limpopo River, despite the crocodile warnings cautioning them not to do so….

It surprised and delighted us how so many people have embraced the Medscheme Tour de Tuli event and made it their own. The community spirit that has evolved has been overwhelming. An event such as this could not be possible without the commitment and contribution of many people. We would like thank Medscheme, all our partners, sponsors, suppliers, cyclists and volunteers for participating in this event and making it an overwhelming success that it was. All monies go to Children in the Wilderness, a worthwhile cause indeed.

(Photos thanks to Russel Friedman)

The pangolin is a strange, scaly mammal that belongs to the order Pholidota. This is only interesting because pangolins are the only animals in the whole order! There are eight species of pangolin still extant. In Africa we find four of these and the rest are found in Asia.

A pangolin’s body is covered in keratin scales that look and feel like very thick finger nails. The scales are razor sharp on the end and deter potential predators who risk serious injury if their digits or lips are trapped between them. When threatened, a pangolin curls up into a tight and impenetrable ball that is a highly effective defence against just about everything except armed humans.

In southern Africa, the Cape or ground pangolin, the focus of this article, is the only species that occurs. It is notoriously difficult to see and photograph. These pangolins can weigh up to 18 kilograms but of this, 20% is made up of their keratinous armour. Pangolins can reportedly live to 20 years, which is impressive for a little mammal.

What does it do?

Ground pangolins almost always do their stuff at night. What they do at night is not particularly well understood because they are so secretive.

We do know that pangolins like to eat ants and termites mainly and this they do with great efficiency. They have extremely long front claws which they use to dig their prey out of rock hard mounds and nests. Then, rather like other ant or termite eating mammals, they use an exceptionally long tongue to probe the tunnels of the hapless colony they happen to be raiding. Apparently this remarkable tongue can reach up to 40 centimetres from the mouth. It folds neatly into a pocket when not supping on ants.

Pangolins live in burrows which they may or may not dig themselves. They seem to prefer living in readymade holes dug by aardvark in the sides of termite mounds. They also spend time simply resting in thick vegetation which doesn’t make finding them any easier.

Pangolins produce one young at a time. These pangolings are soft and white, weighing only 340g at birth. Within two days, their scales start hardening in the burrow and they are allowed out at one month.

Where are they found?

The ground or Cape pangolin is found in southern and eat Africa, preferring savannah woodland as its habitat. Ruckomechi Camp in Zimbabwe has had five sightings of this amazing animal this year (click here for more).

The tree pangolin lives in west Africa. Unsurprisingly it likes to climb but will often feed on the ground. The long-tailed pangolin, also from west Africa, is almost completely arboreal. These two species live in rain forests.

The last of the African species, the giant pangolin lives in east Africa and can live in forest, savannah or woodland habitats.

The other four varieties live in various parts of Asia.

What else should I know?

Pangolins are used medicinally and for food by a number of people in Africa and Asia. The ground pangolin is not as threatened as some of the other species because it tends to be much harder to find. Many of the Asian populations are threatened by illegal meat trade and medicine in China predominantly.

In Africa, all pangolin species face dangers from the bush meat trade and some unsustainable traditional medicine practices.

The next time you’re in the bush…

A pangolin is one of the most sought after animals for seasoned safari goers and guides. Unfortunately it is so difficult to see that when travellers ask their guides to find one, they never actually expect to see it. The next time you find yourself in the wilds of Africa, keep a look out for this mysterious, dark brown, scaly anteater. If you find one, it will be the most rewarding moment of your journey.

A day to remember at Shumba Camp

From Shumba Camp one often does not have to go far to find wildlife. On the morning of the 22nd of July we realised just how close to camp sightings can occur. The Busanga Pride, comprising two males and four adult lionesses, killed a red lechwe antelope right alongside Tent 6 – in which we were staying. We woke at around 05h30 in the morning to the sound of lions roaring, thinking we had been dreaming when in fact we had been woken by the sounds of lionesses hunting and killing a red lechwe, as well as the ensuing spat when the bigger of the two males took over the kill.

Arriving at the main area we decided to delay the obligatory first cup of coffee and the classic Shumba sunrise to drive out in a vehicle in search of the lions. Driving out not even 100m from camp we came across the dominant male crunching into the skull of the lechwe and growling at the rest of the pride to keep their distance. The females lay off to one side, dejected, but his coalition mate lay close by, patiently waiting for any scraps. Eventually the male sauntered off across the Busanga Plains after a little bonding with the females. We left the sighting, allowing other guests from the neighbouring camps (Kapinga and Busanga Bush Camp) to come and take a look.

Finally we could enjoy our cup of coffee but instead of a sunrise we enjoyed the companionship of a nearby foraging herd of uncommon roan antelope – uncommon in many places but not on the Busanga Plains!

Later in the day, on the way back to Shumba for lunch, our guide Lex suddenly stopped the vehicle and asked if we could see the lioness. This female, belong to the same pride we had seen earlier, was lying in the grass, perfectly camouflaged, and was trying to hunt puku – another common antelope of the Busanga Plains. She afforded some wonderful photographic opportunities as she honed in on her prey but failed that attempt, perhaps being a little too impatient.

All in all, we can look forward to many more such amazing sightings on the Plains for the rest of the 2010 season. 

Location: Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe

Date: 11 July, 2010

Observer and Photogrpaher: Jaelle Claypole

On Sunday 11th July at 13:30, three white pelicans were sighted at Samavundla Pan, Hwange National Park. These large birds are a rare sight in Hwange. While they were swimming around the pan, all of a sudden one caught a sharptooth catfish. After a bit of a struggle, it finally managed to stuff the fish into its pouch. We watched for a good 10-15 minutes as the bird tried to orientate it correctly before swallowing it whole. The fish thrashed about frantically in the pouch and the pelican had to try hard to control it.

Although we did not see the catfish clearly, they are known to exist in this pan.

Date:  26 July 2010

Observer: Russell Crossey

We had the most incredible cheetah experience on 26 July.

It began with lions calling around camp at dawn. We headed out hoping to find the two big pride males. Just after leaving camp we spotted an adult female cheetah and her small cub. The cub was very small and still had its honey badger-like pelage – just a few months old. This mimicry of the honey badger is thought to make potential predators confuse the helpless cub with a pugnacious badger.  The cub was full of fun and energy and charged back and forth, ambushing its mother. It could barely contain its excitement on the perfect Kalahari winter’s morning.

The sleek, waspish waist of the adult cheetah indicated that she was hungry.  She walked up a slight ridge and froze. The baby immediately took its cue and vanished from sight. A springbok ram was grazing contentedly about 50 metres to the north and on the downwind side.  The cheetah exploded from the cover of a small bush and stormed at the unsuspecting antelope.  The chase was over in seconds and when the dust settled, the cat had her jaws firmly clamped on the springbok’s throat while its limbs thrashed in vain. This all happened in the middle of a vast plain, not more than 50 metres from our vehicles.

Once the cheetah had suffocated the ram, she began the laborious task of dragging it toward the nearest cover – a small green shepherd’s bush about 40 metres away. She was very alert and kept dropping the carcass and scanning the surroundings. About ten metres from the bush she found herself besieged by a trio of shrieking pied crows. She dropped the carcass and retreated to the bush and kept a close eye on proceedings.

When nothing appeared as a result of the crows’ alarming, she began calling the cub with a high-pitched bird-like sound. The cub came running across the plain to join its mother. It was at least an hour before the female was satisfied that the coast was clear. She returned to drag the carcass to the bush and the two fed for the rest of the day.

The dawn was greeted by a cacophony of excited jackal calls alerting us to the fact that the carcass had been discovered by other predators. We arrived just in time to see a leopard leaving the scene – apparently he had appropriated the carcass sometime that night.

A small, brown, faceless thing, approximately 6.5 centimetres long, was found in the North Island nursery amongst the seedlings, wriggling between the spilled soil. Its finders left it on my desk with a note (see below).

Identifying it as a moth pupa was easy, but identifying the species proved a lot more difficult. From the size, it was clear that the sarcophagus contained a large species. Since we’ve come across a few spectacular death’s head hawkmoths in the past, this was the first species that came to mind. The plan was to carefully put some soil back on top of the pupa and keep it in the office to hatch, but to our surprise, we were spared the waiting. A small crack appeared in the pupa skin. A little while later, the adult moth emerged and unfolded its still moist wings.

The adult form now allowed for proper species identification. Excitingly, it is a rarer species of hawkmoth, namely the oleander hawkmoth (Daphnis nerii). It is listed as “a rarely seen hawkmoth found in the granitics” in the guide Wildlife of Seychelles by Mike Hill and Dave Currie.

The animal was kept a little longer under surveillance to prevent untimely transformation into a skink or bird snack before being able to use its wings. We released it, placing it on a bush just outside our office when it was ready.

Photos thanks to North Island.