The black-faced impala (Aepyceros melampus petersi) is an arid-adapted subspecies of impala that is endemic to Namibia (IUCN Red Data Book 2005) and is classified as “specially protected,” according to the Namibian Government’s Nature Conservation Ordinance. The black-faced impala is unique because it has evolved in geographic isolation from the rest of the species over thousands of years in north-west Namibia and southern Angola.

It is now thought to be extinct in Angola – indeed, an estimated 3 000 black-faced impala are left in the wild, making this subspecies both endangered and endemic to Namibia – meaning that more than 90% of the world’s population occurs here. Poaching, droughts, inter-breeding with common impala and competition from livestock are thought to have caused such severe decrease in numbers. Almost half of the global population are found in Etosha National Park, with at least 1 500 individuals in five distinct subpopulations occurring around Ombika, Olifantsbad, Halali, Namutoni and Kaross. Private reserves such as Ongava Game Reserve, managed by Wilderness Safaris, has one of the largest populations of black-faced impala on private land (around 200 individuals), which has contributed enormously to the conservation of the subspecies.

Ongava’s population has been the subject of considerable research, focusing on home ranges and microhabitat use of radio-collared females (Matson, 2003) and in recent years, much knowledge has been gleaned about the black-faced impala’s ecology. Some key features that have been uncovered by the research include: • Black-faced impala form smaller herds than common impala because they live in an arid environment where food and water resources are scarce and spread out. • Black-faced impala have very large home ranges. Ewes at Ongava in the wet season had home ranges six times as large as common impala elsewhere in Africa (average = 33km²). • As many as 75% of lambs may die before reaching adulthood. The study showed that 50% died in the first two months of life, due to predation and other natural factors.

It is quite easy to tell the difference between common impala and black-faced impala, as they have
• a dark nose blaze,
• a longer, bushier tail,
• darker colouration,
• larger body weight (approximately 10kg heavier than South African common impala).

The Namibian national management strategy for the subspecies focuses on building up the population by establishing a protection zone for black-faced impala that excludes common impala entirely. These zones include the Kunene region, Etosha and its neighbouring farms, Erongo Mountain Wilderness Area and Waterberg Plateau Park.

At Ongava, about two-thirds of the population drink at the Ongava Lodge waterhole, as this is the core of their home range. So the next time you visit Etosha and Ongava, be sure to keep a look out for this unique, endangered and interesting subspecies!

For the past six years the Wilderness Wildlife Trust has helped fund a comprehensive aerial census of the large mammals of Liwonde. The results of these surveys have allowed stakeholders, such as Malawi’s Department of National Parks and Wildlife, to gain an improved understanding of the  Park’s carrying capacity, trends in wildlife populations, threats to the Park’s integrity and the effectiveness of management interventions.

Encouraging signs from the 2011 survey, conducted in October before the arrival of the rains, include continuing increases in elephant, buffalo, hippo, waterbuck, impala, warthog and sable. These findings, however, need to be balanced with an increasing trend in the illicit use of the Park area by neighbouring communities and a clear indication that more needs to be done to involve neighbouring people in the potential benefits of Liwonde.

For the full story, please click here.

As I crossed the mighty Shire River by boat en route to Mvuu Camp in Liwonde National Park, showers of rain began to fall in what I hoped was a sign of good luck. Following a four-hour drive from Lilongwe and a quick dash from the reception area, I finally reached the briefing point at the old J&B chalets where the rhino protection team was camping. It was nearing 3:30pm and I was scheduled on the first trial of our new activity, the “rhino tracking experience” in the sanctuary. This new activity will be offered shortly to Mvuu Camp and Lodge guests, but before its launch the necessary trials by our team had to be carried out. As part of the Wilderness Safaris marketing team, I was there to understand the activity, provide input from a fresh perspective, offer my recommendations for improvement, set up a sighting report protocol with our guides and report back to our Lilongwe Head Office.

The start of something special

Wilderness Safaris is introducing this new activity to allow our Mvuu Camp and Mvuu Lodge guests the chance to track and see black rhino in the wild. Our guests will also be able to learn about this critically endangered species whilst getting involved in the process of monitoring them and contributing to their protection in the area. The activity is also part of our efforts to set up a sustainable funding method for the rhino conservation programme in Liwonde. The activity itself and programme are a collaboration between the International Fund for Animal Welfare (IFAW), the Malawi Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW) and Wilderness Safaris. 90% of all proceeds generated from the activity will go to IFAW to maintain the programme.

The history and progress of the black rhino in Liwonde

In the late 1980s the last black rhino disappeared from Mwabvi Wildlife Reserve and the species technically became extinct in Malawi. In the 1990s a partnership between South Africa National Parks, the Department of National Parks and Wildlife, the J&B Circle (now the Endangered Species of Malawi Circle) and Wilderness Safaris sought to remedy the situation. In 1993, the first pair of black rhino were airlifted into a fenced sanctuary within the park. Their names were Justerini and Brooks and they, along with several other rhinos that followed them, would be part of one of the most successful black rhino breeding programmes in Africa to date. The next stage in the rhino conservation programme in Liwonde is to bring down the fence of the sanctuary, so the park itself in essence becomes the “sanctuary”. With these plans in the pipeline, the continued effective monitoring and protection of the black rhino in the park is increasingly important.

The first trial walk

Our first tracking walk (the most important element of the activity) began at 15:30. The “rhino tracking experience” is conducted by two teams, each consisting of two armed Rhino Protection Team (RPT) scouts (assigned by DNPW and IFAW to monitor and protect the rhinos in the area), a Wilderness Safaris guide and two accompanying guests. RPT is a unit established by Head of Habitat Protection in Liwonde, Mike Labuschagne, and comprises four fully trained trackers. Both teams are dropped off at different points near the sanctuary from which they walk in single file formation (with scouts at front and end) into the thick bush of the sanctuary.

The charms and challenges of tracking rhino in the bush

The rainy, or “green season” as the travel trade fondly calls it, is one of the most thriving and scenic times of the year yet it unleashes the toughest conditions to walk and track through. The vegetation is flourishing and the bush is thick and filled with pools and puddles of mud. Fresh tracks after the rains however do appear more visible and can be measured and followed with greater ease.

As we embarked on our first walk through the dense thicket, the sounds, colours and details of the bush came alive. Although we were tracking rhino, I couldn’t help but notice the sheer multitude of dragonflies, butterflies and more peculiar insects that crossed our path. Even bushpigs grunted in the distance, impala darted across the sandy roads and a very healthy looking herd of zebra majestically galloped away at the sound of our footsteps.

Avoiding thorns and wriggling past branches, we walked in between the RPT scouts who communicated to each other with hand signals and bush calls. Whilst the rhino is alerted by human voices, it is less alarmed by sounds similar to that of other animals. It wasn’t long before we reached several middens (areas where rhinos defecate in order to mark their territory). As we walked deeper into the bush, we were losing sunlight and were yet to find fresh signs of a rhino.

An ‘almost’ close encounter

Suddenly, Patrick, the lead scout, turned around and pointed to the road to a pair of rhino spoor approximately three hours old. We measured both the front and back prints and our guides explained that these animals were walking in a very relaxed manner, two bulls would not walk together like this so we were undoubtedly looking at the spoor of a mother and calf. The spoor became less clear once we followed it to the grass. Suddenly we heard the sound of a very large animal in a nearby thicket running away, but we had no visual and could track no further as darkness was approaching. As we walked into the half-light a pair of Spotted Eagle-Owls hooted to each other and the sound of crickets numbed our ears – it was time to call it a night.

Developing the activity

We drove back to the camp for a debriefing session with Mike, all RPT scouts (Ian, Patrick, Rafael and Mavuto), Wilderness Safaris guides (Henry, Julius, Matthews and Jim), Mvuu Managers (Riaant and Christopher), Symon (the programme coordinator of CITW who had joined the other team on their trial), and me. As the hippos in the Shire honked away and we sat covered in mud and dirt at the Educational Centre, we deliberated on how to improve the activity and enhance the educational and engagement aspect of the walk. The input came from everyone at the table and it was fulfilling to witness such an important conservation-based activity take shape and be part of the process of moulding it further. The excitement was real, we had come close to a sighting but we were also part of something very special. These discussions and trials along with the hard work of our Managing Director, Chris Badger, Operations Manager, Warren Baty, Mvuu Manager, Riaan Roest, the Head of Habitat Protection, Mike Labuschagne, and all Wilderness Safaris and RPT, IFAW and DNPW participants were coming together to create an activity that stands for everything we believe in as an organisation.

The second walk

It was a 04:30 start to the morning the next day and after tea and biscuits at 05:00 we walked to Gate 1 of the rhino sanctuary, with high expectations and more than an adequate supply of energy. Accompanying us this time was volunteer guest, Gail Harland, whose comments would prove extremely valuable to the further development of the activity. On this walk into the bush we found several older spoors, four middens and two resting places (we could see clearly where a rhino had lay down over the soil). Our team comprised RPT scouts Ian and Mavuto and Wilderness guide, Julius. We walked to the Ntangai River, which runs through the sanctuary; its water levels were high so our team established that there was no way the rhinos could be crossing to the other side just yet and there were definitely a few in the area.

Our team brought the history and behaviour of the black rhino to life on this tracking walk: we stopped in the area where the first rhino were introduced into the sanctuary in a ma-made boma, where Julius explained how at the time of the initial rhino reintroduction, there were a few lions in the park and the fence around the boma was made to keep them well away, as fears of them digging through and harming the rhino were very real.

Our trackers stopped to show us other signs of the rhinos’ presence and explain other key elements of their behaviour and habits. We were shown how to look for signs of browsing, how to identify resting places and rubbing posts (trees or branches the rhino regularly scratches itself against). Ian, the lead tracker, worked tirelessly trying to get us on a hot trail, but after four hours we did not have our sighting. That being said, the information and learning experience provided the opportunity to actively be involved in practical monitoring – such as participating in measurements of spoor and noting the whereabouts of key signs – was a compensation I was happy with. Gail provided further tips for improvement from a guest’s perspective and said the best part of the activity for her was learning about the black rhino and then being shown evidence of these facts in the surroundings by the trackers and guide.

Our slogan: Learn, get involved and contribute!

Although our team did not get a sighting, a black rhino was seen in the afternoon before our first trial commenced. The chance of sightings is very real and continuously increasing as the trackers spend more time in the sanctuary and observe the habits and whereabouts of the black rhino within.

Following our final debriefing we coined our slogan for the activity: Learn, get involved and contribute. Whilst the “rhino tracking experience” offers a very realistic chance of seeing black rhino in Liwonde, its offering as an activity extends far beyond the promise of a sighting and touches the very core of conservation-based tourism. Following the implementation of guest observation sheets, an increased delivery of an educational experience and greater guest participation in the monitoring process, we are in essence providing an activity that allows guests to actively be involved in the monitoring and research of a critically endangered species in a non-invasive manner.

The story of the black rhino in Malawi is part of a great triumph in conservation; from being a species that died out it has re-emerged and the population is slowly being restored. We are giving our guests not only the chance to contribute financially to the preservation of the black rhino but also the opportunity to be part an incredible conservation effort – that shows not only the dedication of all parties involved but also the resilience of the black rhino as a species.

The rhino tracking experience

For us as a company, this activity is significant in its composition as it harmoniously blends various aspects of Commerce, Conservation, Community and Culture – these 4Cs are the very principles Wilderness Safaris believes are crucial to the ongoing success of our operation as a sustainable tourism company. Through this activity we bring our guests and connect them to conservation on so many levels and we incorporate our local guides and scouts as an integral part of the process. As a result, all aspects of the “rhino tracking experience” blend perfectly to create a dynamic, engaging and educational activity that makes a genuine difference to the conservation of black rhino in Liwonde.

The importance of our guests’ support

Wilderness Safaris, IFAW, DNPW and all parties involved would greatly appreciate the support of our guests in booking this activity which will only cost USD 40 per person. 90% of the funds generated from the activity will go to IFAW to ensure the continued monitoring of the black rhino in Liwonde at a critical stage in the development of this conservation programme.

The “rhino tracking experience” will be officially launched and made available to guests over the Easter holidays (April 7- 8 2012). We invite all future guests to participate in the activity, whether in the morning or afternoon. It will commence with a briefing on the plight and history of the rhino, include a three-hour tracking experience in rhino territory and end with a bush breakfast or dinner.

For more images, please click here.

The Mombo solar array consists of 396 photovoltaic panels of 230W each, with 194 batteries. This equates to a 91 kilowatt array that produces in excess of 450kWh per day. In addition 30 solar geysers have reduced the need for fossil fuel usage even further meaning that the risk (and carbon footprint) of delivering fuel to Mombo across the fragile Okavango Delta is even further mitigated.

In simple terms this means that reduction in expected carbon emissions for Mombo over 2012 are of the order of 97%! We thus expect to emit only 6.5 tonnes of carbon dioxide equivalents over the course of 2012 compared to 215 tonnes during 2011.

As Wilderness Safaris Botswana MD, Grant Woodrow, said at an announcement in Maun, “This has been a mammoth task, and many contractors and Wilderness staff need to be congratulated for taking this bold financial step and getting the job done. Pula!”

This time we were there to meet with school principals and teachers to discuss this year’s CITW Environmental Clubs and activities.  The children were very excited to see us, with some even running out of their classrooms screaming happy greetings.  All classrooms are overcrowded with too few teachers (between 70 and 90 children per teacher) so teaching also happens outdoors under the trees and we inadvertently disrupted these classes too.

We always try to take books and wildlife magazines to the school libraries whenever we visit.

Each of the schools has a feeding programme and all school children get a meal when they attend school.  Adults from the community come to school to cook for the children on the premises.

In the village, we met with the local women to purchase their arts and crafts which Wilderness Adventures Pafuri Camp then sells in its curio shop, providing a market for the local community wares.

This year the CITW Environmental Clubs will include a workshop on Environmental Careers, activities around Sustainable Living, No Littering, tree planting for Arbour Day and we will be running a Big Birding Day in the village.

To find out more about our Children in the Wilderness programme, visit www.childreninthewilderness.com

Janet Wilkinson – Children in the Wilderness South Africa

Children in the Wilderness assists with an ongoing nutritional programme where donor funded schools receive a meal per school day for each child. This includes the implementation of a vegetable garden at each school where we are encouraging the schools to become self-sustaining by planting enough vegetables to supplement the meals provided for the children. In doing so, they are being educated on farming practice and are learning the importance of nutrition.

Historically rural communities have used wood chopped from the surrounding mopane forests to ‘fence in’ their vegetable and livestock areas; however this has devastating effects on the surrounding forests. With donor assistance, these vegetable gardens were recently fenced, and in an attempt to teach the community an alternative to the rapid and relentless destruction of the forest area, the donors were responsible for the purchase of 400 jatrophe seedlings which were planted along the fence line.

To supplement the nutrition scheme, maize and rape seeds have also been provided and our tour leaders and guides worked alongside the school development committees, teachers and children to plant the seeds.

Everyone divided into teams and the enthusiasm was tangible; there was an element of competition as each group tried their best to challenge their opponents with the quantities planted during the course of the day.

After much hard work, a well-deserved nutritious lunch was enjoyed by all.

For more information about Children in the Wilderness go to www.childreninthewilderness.com

Recent heavy rains both locally and upstream in the Delta had produced a phenomenon similar to the seasonal inundation on a small scale in certain areas close to channel systems, resulting in some of the floodplains being awash in shallow, crystal-clear, flowing water which shimmered in the early-morning light. Guide Lazarus Moalosi and I set off on our first morning and soon came across fresh African wild dog tracks, which we decided to follow up on.  We found the pack shortly thereafter, but it wasn’t the pack we were expecting to find. The Golden Pack of 26 dogs is gaining a reputation for their spectacular colouration and hunting tactics, and this was exactly where I had seen them on my last visit.

This pack, however, consisted of 13 dogs, and was significantly darker, and therefore more “normally” coloured than the Golden Pack. Surprisingly, these two packs share the same area.

Lazarus and I followed this pack for the better part of two hours as they moved across inundated floodplains from tree island to island, often showing extreme hesitation and caution when crossing more open sections of water. The older individuals would first inspect the water, check the depth and look for signs of danger before crossing in a few bounding leaps. After a few moments of reluctance, the other adults would follow, which would convince the younger pups to keep up and follow.

The noise of their passage through the water alerted most of their prey species well before their arrival, so after a few spectacular chases the pack moved into dense blue-bush and guarri thickets into which we could not follow them easily, causing us to abandon the chase.

That afternoon we went again in search of them, but our timing was a bit off, and although we traversed the right area that we felt they may have ended up in, they were nowhere to be seen in the dense grasses – most probably asleep in the shade in the heat of the afternoon.

We did, however, come across a magnificent herd of Cape buffalo, numbering in their hundreds spread out over the Jacky’s Pan area. Not far off were zebra in their numbers, as well as giraffe by the dozen. A little further away we encountered a small group of four sable antelope. Unusually, they were in dense woodland, which isn’t where one would expect to find them. They were a bit nervous of the vehicle and quickly moved into deeper cover.

The next day we came across three juvenile lions, and followed the tracks of a large male unsuccessfully, encountering the tracks of two different leopards along the way: a male and a female.

The following morning we found a male lion from the Vumbura coalition of four, marching determinedly west, calling all the while, looking for his comrades. We returned that afternoon to find his three mates on a freshly killed buffalo, and sat back to watch as the other male came in to join them. This started off with some affectionate head-rubbing bonding action, before degenerating into a brief “boxing match” accompanied by deep growls and roars, before dominance issues were settled and they moved off to feed on the kill, bathed in the soft light of a cloud-filled summer sunset.  As we watched, another guide called in a leopard sighting, but we were too engrossed in the lions to want to leave them!

This drew to a close – a wonderful Vumbura Summer Season experience, replete with spectacular scenery of floodplains and magnificent woodlands cloaked with the new growth of summer; fantastic predator activity, and not to mention the birds, which would warrant a whole other chapter!

Ryan Green

The Wilderness Group operates on or adjacent to a number of significant water bodies, from the major river systems of the Shire, Luangwa, Lufupa, Kafue, Zambezi, Kavango, Linyanti, Kunene, Limpopo, and Luvuvhu rivers, to the Ramsar wetland sites (wetlands of international importance recognized under the Ramsar Convention) of the Okavango delta, Busanga swamps, Makuleke wetlands, Lake Sibaya and the turtle beaches and coral reefs of Tongaland.

Aside from raising their profiles, Wilderness is also actively involved in the conservation and research of these locations, either through independent efforts or through collaborations with relevant conservation authorities and NGOs. These efforts have in many cases directly driven the conservation of the areas themselves or specific species within them.

Country: Botswana
Site: Okavango Delta (Ramsar site no. 879)
Size: 5 537 400 ha (13 683 157 acres)
Description: The only inland delta in sub-Saharan Africa. Set in a semi-arid region and subject to large seasonal fluctuations of inundation. Vegetation includes permanent and seasonal swamp, riverine woodland, floodplains and a freshwater lake. The diverse flora and fauna includes 1 060 different plant species, 32 large mammal species, over 650 species of birds, 68 species of fish, and a diverse insect population. Human activities include recreation, tourism, subsistence farming, fishing, and livestock grazing.
Operation Details: 20 small camps – 290 beds (Kings Pool, DumaTau, Savuti, Selinda, Zarafa, Banoka, Vumbura Plains, Little Vumbura, Duba Plains, Mombo, Little Mombo, Xigera, Jao, Jacana, Kwetsani, Tubu Tree, Abu, Seba, Chitabe, Chitabe Lediba, Wilderness Tented Camp, Moremi Tented Camp).

Country:  Zambia
Site: Busanga Swamps (Ramsar site no. 1659)
Size: 200 000 ha (494 209 acres)
Description: A seasonal floodplain (swamps, lagoons, woodlands, rivers and large grassy plains) which is important for groundwater recharge and flood control for the Kafue and Zambezi Rivers. It hosts a number of vulnerable and endangered birds and mammals and supports significant numbers of migratory birds and other fauna. There is a wide variety of fish, including Tilapia sp. The site is of local historical and traditional importance through fables arising from a Baobab tree located therein.
Operation Details: Two intimate camps – 28 beds (Shumba, and Busanga Bush Camp).

Country: South Africa
Site: Turtle beaches and coral reefs of Tongaland (Ramsar site no. 344.)
Size: 39 500 ha (97 606 acres)
Description: An important transition zone between true reef and non-limestone substrates with reef communities. Known to support 16 species of coral, 1 200 species of fish, five species of marine turtles, 41 species of marine mammal, and 49 species of bird. The flora is predominantly algal, and many species reach the southern limit of their distribution.
Operation Details: One camp – 34 beds (Rocktail Beach Camp).

Country: South Africa
Site: Lake Sibaya (Ramsar site no. 528.)
Size: 7 750 ha (19 150 acres)
Description: The largest natural freshwater lake in South Africa. Separated from the ocean by forested dunes; includes areas of swamp forest and wet grassland. A large variety of endangered or endemic species of reptiles, fish, birds, mammals and plants occur. The site is important for numerous species of breeding birds and supports a large population of hippopotamus as well as a diverse zooplankton fauna, 15 species of aquatic and 43 species of terrestrial molluscs.
Operation Details: One camp – 34 beds (Rocktail Beach Camp).

Country: South Africa
Site: Makuleke wetlands (Ramsar site no. 1687)
Size: 7 757 ha (19 167 acres)
Description: Excellent example of a floodplain vlei type with riverine forests, riparian floodplain forests, floodplain grasslands, river channels and 31 flood pans. Flood pans are depressions in the floodplains which are intermittently filled from floods and rains – they are of great importance in this ecosystem as they hold water right into the dry season, thus acting as a refuge point for wildlife and waterbirds. The floodplains attenuate floods, are important for groundwater recharge, and maintain riparian and floodplain vegetation.
Operation Details: Two camps – 48 beds (Pafuri Camp; Pafuri Walking Trail).

This safari showcased the extraordinary montane area of Nyika National Park with its wide range of birding habitats, from miombo woodland, wetlands and montane forest to picturesque rolling grasslands. The region affords visiting birders some incredible birding opportunities and is home to several Southern Rift endemics and many species restricted to south-central Africa. Other than Nyika, the main trip also visited the Viphya Plateau, Malawi’s second largest plateau and the central Lake Malawi area of Chintheche. The extension paid homage to the Zomba massif and the lush lowlands of Liwonde National Park for added bird diversity.

04 December: Lilongwe to Luwawa Forest Lodge, Viphya Plateau
We arrived in Lilongwe around midday and headed straight out to our first destination, Luwawa. We did have a quick leg stretch at a dam just before Kasungu where the highlight was Lesser Jacana together with other common waterbird species. Our scenic drive continued north, initially through rural Malawi and eventually onto the first slopes of the Viphya Plateau – part of the second largest montane complex in Malawi.

Although much of this region has been given over to commercial plantations there are still some wonderful tracts of miombo and mixed woodland as well as open wetlands and forest at Luwawa itself. We arrived at the lodge with enough time for an afternoon walkabout. The gardens of Luwawa were just alive with tantalising species such as Bronzy Sunbird, Red-rumped Swallow, Olive Woodpecker, Forest Double-collared Sunbird, White-eyed Slaty Flycatcher, Tropical Boubou, Bertram’s Weaver and Yellow-bellied Waxbill. The wetland area below the lodge was just as productive and we quickly saw African Marsh Harrier, White-headed and Eastern Sawwing, Evergreen Forest Warbler and Dark-capped Yellow Warbler while Red-chested Flufftail called from the reed beds.

We overnighted at Luwawa Forest Lodge – it is scenically located overlooking a large wetland and has comfortable en-suite rooms.

05 – 08 December: Chelinda Camp, Nyika National Park
A pre-breakfast walk afforded us better views of species already mentioned with the addition of Chapin’s Apalis, Comb Duck, African Olive Pigeon and fleeting views of Cabanis’s Bunting. Our birding was cut short by a rain storm so we decided to have breakfast earlier and hit the road for the drive to our next destination – the stunning Nyika National Park, centrepiece of this exciting Malawi itinerary. On the drive out of Luwawa we managed to pick up Broad-tailed Warbler and Short-winged Cisticola, with a lucky find on the turn-off to Rumphi being a perched Red-necked Falcon in remnant palm savannah. A first-class packed lunch was enjoyed near Rumphi where we added the likes of Half-collared Kingfisher, our first Augur Buzzard, Lesser Striped Swallow and Common Sandpiper.

We entered Nyika at Thazima Gate and got to Chelinda Lodge in the late afternoon, excited at the birding prospects ahead of us in this impressive high-altitude park. Three full days were available to explore the delights of Nyika covering all the main habitat types – and the weather was, thankfully, very obliging.

Notable summer grassland species that we recorded included: Montane Widowbird, Black-lored and Churring Cisticola, Yellow Wagtail, Caspian Plover, Wattled Crane, Denham’s Bustard with Montagu’s and Pallid Harrier quartering gracefully over the grasslands. On night drives we saw serval twice, a female Pennant-winged Nightjar, Ruwenzori Nightjar and Eurasian Nightjar – with a Grass Owl thrown in for good measure!

Other specialities include Redwinged (endemic sub-species) and Hildebrandt’s Francolin, Rufousnaped Lark, Jackson’s Pipit, Angola Swallow, Tree Pipit, Whinchat, Red-tailed (Isabelline) Shrike, loads of Tree Pipit, Scarlet-tufted Sunbird (one sighting), Malachite Sunbird, Ludwig’s Double-collared Sunbird, Variable Sunbird, Blackcap and White-winged Black Tit.

Walks from Chelinda Lodge itself yielded Yellow-browed Seedeater, Yellow-bellied Waxbill, Dusky Turtle Dove, Yellow-crowned Canary, Cinnamon Bracken-Warbler, Mountain Yellow Warbler, Baglafecht Weaver and tree hyrax as an interesting mammal.

Speaking of mammals, amongst all the birding, common sightings were Crawshay’s zebra, eland, impressive numbers of roan antelope, common reedbuck, bushbuck, warthog, red duiker, samango monkey, grey and red duiker.

Birding the forested pockets of Chowo and Zovo-Chipolo added Bar-tailed Trogon, Sharpe’s Greenbul, Southern Mountain Greenbul, Moustached Tinkerbird, Fülleborn’s Boubou, White-chested Alethe and Olive flanked Robin-Chat (for some), Forest Double-collared Sunbird, Mountain Thrush, Evergreen Forest-Warbler, Malawi Batis, Crowned Hornbill, Lemon Dove building a nest, and Schalow’s Turaco to mention a few! A particular waterfall had nesting Slender-billed Starling, another top bird, while Waller’s Starling was seen over the forested areas. Hirundines were also everywhere – from Blue Swallow in good numbers to the striking White-headed Sawwing.

Many botanical stops were also made while we were at Nyika – the diversity of orchids and other floral gems was staggering at times.

Our accommodation was upgraded to the remarkable Chelinda Lodge – spacious log cabins with sweeping views of the Nyika grasslands. The catering and personal attention from the staff was another highlight for us all.

09 and 10 December: Chintheche Inn, Lake Malawi
After the heady heights of Nyika we travelled down to the central lakeshore of Lake Malawi – one of Africa’s Great Lakes – and the pristine beaches of Chintheche. We left Nyika very early on the day as we had several key birding stops to make before reaching the Lake.

Our first stop was a patch of flat-topped acacia woodland where we quickly found Brown Parisoma. A forest pocket yielded Brown-headed Apalis and much better views of Fulleborn’s Boubou. Further along a patch of miombo produced Trilling Cisticola, Cabanis’s Bunting, White-tailed Blue Flycatcher and a pair of Brown-backed Honeybird overhead.

Our next stops were patches of miombo just outside the Park. This was to be our only time spent in this special habitat type and we made the most of it. New for the list was Orange-winged Pytilia, Redwinged Warbler in the grassy undergrowth, Miombo Blue-eared Starling, Pale-billed Hornbill, Green-capped Eremomela, Miombo Pied Barbet, Arnot’s Chat, Stierling’s Wren-Warbler, Rufous-bellied and Miombo Tit. The highlight for some was finding nesting White-winged Babbling Starling.

We arrived in the afternoon – enough time for all just to settle in and go for a swim. Bird watching in the grounds of Chintheche and in the nearby lowland forest was productive for Blue-spotted Wood-dove, East Coast Akalat, Yellow Weaver, Palmnut Vulture, African Barred Owlet, Northern Gray-headed Sparrow and Purple-banded Sunbird. After pretty full days at Nyika one afternoon was simply spent relaxing on the lakeshore – a welcome reprieve just to take it all in…

We overnighted Chintheche Inn, which consists of comfortable rooms with en-suite bathrooms – all set in extensive gardens. Each has its own ‘beach’-view veranda overlooking the panoramic shoreline of Lake Malawi.

11 December: Back to Lilongwe
We drove back to Lilongwe – the end of the main trip had unfortunately arrived – initially along the southern lakeshore before heading inland. On one notable stop we added Fan-tailed Widowbird and the tricky-to-find Moustached Grass-Warbler. We said our goodbyes to two of the guests at the airport and then headed on to Heuglin’s Lodge in Lilongwe for lunch. Set in scenic gardens, this guesthouse had a definite ‘home from home’ feel, just perfect for the night.

The late afternoon was spent birding some spots in and around Lilongwe city itself. First up was the Lilongwe Sewage Works where quite a few shorebirds were around such as Little Stint, Common Greenshank, Wood Sandpiper and a single Grey Plover – the latter a good record for Malawi. What was also incredible was the number of Yellow Wagtails seen here – at least 10. Next up was the Lilongwe Nature Sanctuary – a patch of woodland right in the city – where we added very obliging Red-throated Twinspot and Schalow’s Turaco, a female African Emerald Cuckoo, large flock of migrating Amur Falcons overhead, and Black Cuckooshrike.

12 December: Lilongwe to KuChawe Inn, Zomba Plateau
We continued southward to the old colonial capital city of Zomba, with Zomba Mountain, a huge granite outcrop rising to over 2000 metres with several highly localised and endangered species, the focus of our birding. On the ascent we quickly ‘had’ to make a stop for Livingstone’s Turaco, Little Greenbul, Brimestone Canary, Black-headed Apalis, Southern Citril, and a photographable troop of samango monkeys.

The afternoon was spent exploring small remaining pockets of forest and tranquil streams where we had some of the best birding of the entire trip. Worthy additions were Grey Wagtail, Mountain Wagtail, Olive-headed Greenbul, Placid Greenbul, the stunning and range restricted Yellow-throated and White-winged Apalis, Olive Bush-Shrike (ruddy form), White-starred Robin galore, Eastern Sawwing, Evergreen Forest Warbler, Malawi Batis, White-tailed Elminia and Garden Warbler.

Overnight Ku Chawe Inn –this inn commands spectacular views, which on clear days stretch all the way along the Shire Highlands and Mount Mulanje.

13 – 15 December: Mvuu Camp, Liwonde National Park
Before leaving Zomba we visited a local birder in town who showed us his nesting White-winged Apalis and who has done much to conserve this charismatic species. We thought we could not get better views of this cracking bird. We were wrong. Just after we arrived a pair of this birds were actively nest building – a few metres from the porch! What a sighting! We left Zomba, content with all the good birds we have seen but a bit dismayed at the rampant loss of forest habitat here. Hopefully what remains can be protected.

The finale, undoubtedly another top birding spot in Malawi, was Liwonde National Park. Two full days were allocated to explore the tapestry of habitats and ecotones found here including the languid Shire Rive with its extensive floodplains, deciduous thicket, riverine forest, seasonal wetlands and mopane woodland – over 350 bird species to find!

We were simply amazed at the bird diversity and recent rains had the left birds tripping! Activities include walking, birding and game viewing drives in open 4X4 vehicles and boat trips on the Shire River itself.

Over the course of our stay, specials we notched up included Lilian’s Lovebird, Brown-breasted Barbet (what a bird!), White-backed Night-Heron, Spur-winged Lapwing, Red-necked Falcon, Dickinson’s Kestrel, Pel’s Fishing-Owl, Gull-billed Tern, Speckle-throated Woodpecker, Collared Palm-thrush, a surprise flock of Magpie Mannikin, Grey-headed Parrot, Western Banded Snake-eagle, Böhm’s Bee-eater, Green Sandpiper, Southern Brown-throated Weaver, Racket-tailed Roller and Livingstone’s Flycatcher.

This Park also offered good mammal opportunities whilst birding and we saw African elephant, waterbuck, sable antelope, buffalo, Lichtenstein’s hartebeest, yellow baboon, warthog, thick-tailed bushbaby and smaller mongoose species. Not to mention the dense population of hippo in the Shire River and monstrous Nile crocodile found lazing on the sandbanks…

Upgraded to Mvuu Lodge – spacious tents, each with en-suite bathroom facilities and a private viewing platform looking out on the lagoon.

16 December: Back to Lilongwe
After our last breakfast we reluctantly returned to Liwonde town by boat for our drive back to Lilongwe for onward flight back home.

Liwonde National Park is recognised internationally as Malawi’s premier game destination: known for its abundant populations of antelope, warthog, elephant, crocodile and hippo. However, sightings of predators have been scarce in the park. In a thrilling development in late November 2010, a lion was seen for the first time in years and the sightings continued through 2011, resulting in much excitement!

A little history
According to Samuel, between 1970 and 1990, Liwonde was the best national park in Malawi for spotting lions. However, due to the poaching that plagued many of Malawi’s national parks in their early years, the lions slowly moved out of the park to greener pastures. Following the continued rehabilitation of Liwonde National Park, significant steps have been made to ensure the restoration of the park’s delicate ecosystems and make the park a wildlife haven once more. In July 2007 at 7:20pm, guides Jimmy, Laston, Julius and their guests spotted a lion near the Ntangai Drift near the Rhino Sanctuary. At that time, the Wilderness guides believed that three lions were living in the park. From 2008 onwards however, there were no signs whatsoever of any lion population in the park and Samuel believes that they left for Mozambique through the Mangochi Forest Reserve.

And they called him “Titus”
In November 2010 a team of researchers and officers spotted a lion six kilometres south of Mvuu, near a bridge at Namisundu. Throughout the early months of 2011, a lion could be heard roaring through the park on certain nights. On February 20th 2011, a set of lion tracks was found leading from the Mvuu Lodge car park road to where the Mvuu Camp Manager’s tent is located. Finally on July 18th at 8:00pm, the first sightings for 2011 were reported on a game drive by guides McCloud and Samuel with their guests. The lion was seen north of Mvuu Camp and was resting under a tree, just eight metres from the road. He was observed for 25 minutes and appeared at ease until he heard the sound of an approaching vehicle. The group of guests present decided to name him ‘Titus”.

Titus’ timetable
Titus was later seen on 12th September 2011 and most recently on 29th October 2011 at 7:20 pm when guides Mathew, McLoud, Duncan, Samuel, Danford and 18 guests observed Titus hunt down a kudu. About 71 people in total have seen the lion in Liwonde National Park.

Samuel explains a little about where and when Titus can be seen:
“He is most likely to be spotted from 7:20pm – 9:00pm and over the last month lion tracks and roaring sounds have come from the Rhino Sanctuary. However the lion seems to hunt outside the Sanctuary (across the river from Old Skimmer Bank up to the North Ntangai Thicket near Mvuu Camp and Lodge). When spotted, this lion stays still for a while and eventually shyly walks away. How long this lion will stay and how much more of him we will encounter, remains to be seen. As roaring continues to echo through the Park, the lion’s presence is thrilling for guides and guests alike who are all eagerly awaiting another chance to see Liwonde’s new top predator: Titus the lion.”

Samuel Chihana has worked in Liwonde National Park as a guide for Mvuu Camp and Mvuu Lodge for five years and is currently in charge of providing the Lilongwe Wilderness Safaris office with sightings and news updates.