Hwange National Park has become globally renowned as a haven for wildlife and ecotourism. Situated on the western side of the country on the main road between Bulawayo and the Victoria Falls, it covers over 14 600 square kilometres.

In order to understand the significance of Hwange, a very brief look into the history of the area is needed. The area was sparsely populated by the San people (roughly between the 4th–11th century), who followed a nomadic hunter-gatherer lifestyle. The San were dominated by the later arrival of pastoralist Bantu groups. Chief Hwange (after whom the park is named) of the Lozi tribe settled in the area but was ousted by the Matabele chief Mzilikazi who was on the run from the Zulu chief Shaka’s conquest of South Africa.

The area became Mzilikazi’s royal hunting grounds in the early 19th century; however, with the arrival of European colonists, the area’s wildlife was further obliterated through careless hunting. Through a twist of fate, the area was proclaimed a National Park in 1929, and thanks to these conservation measures, Hwange is now the largest National Park in Zimbabwe.

Hwange now boasts over 100 mammal species, including 19 large herbivores and eight large carnivores. The park is home to healthy populations of buffalo and has one of the largest populations of African elephant in the world. Other species of note include lion, leopard, African wild dog, cheetah, brown hyaena, sable and roan antelope.

It is a place of great contrasts between its wet and dry seasons, with the extremes reminding one of the life-giving properties of water. 400 species of birds are found here making it a birdwatcher’s paradise, particularly in the wet season.

Hwange’s climate can be divided into two distinct seasons:

Dry Season: July to September is hot during the day but can drop to below freezing on particularly cold winter nights. During these dry months the animals are concentrated around the manmade waterholes which sustain the animals during the times of need.

Rainy Season: Big fluffy clouds release the summer rains and the vegetation bursts into life. The area has a relatively low average rainfall of between 570-650 mm per annum. Temperatures can reach over 38°C, on average ranging from 18-28°C. Bird life is most spectacular at this time.

Hwange National Park is truly one of Africa’s hidden secrets, but more and more people are becoming aware of this amazing wilderness area. Wilderness currently operates two private concessions in the productive south-east – Makalolo and Linkwasha. The two concessions host guests in a number of camps: Little Makalolo, Davison’s and Makalolo Plains, and are ecologically diverse, including vast open palm-fringed plains, grasslands, acacia woodlands and teak forests. This ensures large numbers of animals all year round.

By Warren Ozorio

References:

1: www.zimparks.org

2: Zimbabwe, Botswana and Namibia, Lonely Planet – Deanna Swaney

3: www.game-reserve.com

We had just finished enjoying brunch when we noticed a lone buffalo bull limping to the pan in front of Little Makalolo Camp. The old male was past the prime of his life and we quietly mentioned amongst ourselves that he would probably soon be taken by lions. Such is the circle of life here in Hwange. Little did we know of what was to happen…

The buffalo stayed around at the front pan in the shade for the remainder of the afternoon and as evening descended, the predators emerged. Just after dusk, guide Charles and his guests were on their way back into camp and came across a leopard. They were so enjoying this sighting that they almost missed what was about to take place. A clan of about seven spotted hyaena had pushed the buffalo towards the waterhole where he eventually took what little refuge he could by standing in the centre of the pan. This however did not deter the hyaena as they eventually followed into the water. Spotted hyaena are far from being mere scavengers; as a clan they are formidable hunters too.

One of the hyaena made a swift move and latched onto the buffalo’s tail, which in the strong jaws of a hyaena was ripped off like a piece of chewed liquorice. The hyaena clan was in a deep state of salivation and cackling in anticipation. The buffalo, surrounded and unable to flee, could not do anything and just had to try standing his ground in increasing futility. With all the chaos, some of the hyaena moved slightly to one side, giving the buffalo a chance to escape and headed straight for Little Makalolo Camp – stopping about five metres from the main dining area.

We waited, holding our breath, wondering what would happen next. The usual dinner under the stars was cancelled for obvious reasons! During the course of dinner the buffalo did not move much and neither did the patient hyaena. Not even 15 minutes after the camp lights were out the hyaena launched their second and fatal attack. Kim and Charles witnessed the whole event but more by sound than by sight. The buffalo tried to escape but it collapsed in a heap due to exhaustion and blood loss and at this moment the hyaena started to feed.

Walking to the main area in the morning, by the light of day, we got a detailed look at the buffalo carcass with one hyaena still in attendance. The carcass was dragged further away from camp, and we watched as other scavengers, such as jackals and vultures, arrived to finish off the carcass over the next couple of days.

There are a couple of lion prides around Little Makalolo in Hwange National Park - and guests this month were privileged to see the Back Pan Girls and their four-month-old cub. Both guests and guides have been spending quality time with the family as they are seen often, on some occasions with the magnificent dark-maned male, who we can only assume is the proud father.

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